Nosiya ( noun ) ( Bulgarian ) -
1 . traditional folk dress ( nowadays ) ;
2. everyday clothing, clothes, fashion (before)
Nosya (verb)(Bulgarian) - wear

The foundation for Krista Stefanova’s debut RTW collection lies within the exploration of a state of in-between. Between past and present, old and new, traditional and modern, local and global, it recontextualises, reconsiders and ultimately rediscovers aspects of Bulgarian folklore.

Through the implementation of the old into the contemporary, a juxtaposition of narratives is achieved – a dynamic exchange between opposing themes and aesthetic codes in order to construct nuanced intersections between worlds.

Traditional references are understood through their primary value as functional everyday wear – in pants with overlapping aprons or utility single pocket-belts. Ornamentation is stripped off in favour of accentuation on volumes and strong silhouettes. Upcycled pieces and old fabrics are combined with modern technical ones, coins become metal studs, pleats are moved up and down the body - sometimes in the form of fluid skirts, wrap-around girdles, or back aprons, serving as an extension of the lower torso.

Squared necklines are a nod to traditional pinafores, while headwear consists of enveloping hoods and headscarfs.

A play with proportion is achieved through an interchange of volumes – where there is an abundance of it, it is equally balanced by a form fitting structure. The use of leather also plays a key part in the collection – used for its softness and drape qualities to envelop the wearer’s body, as well as to provide a contrasting sculpturesque feel in a number of garments.

A vocabulary of contrast is present throughout the collection, its materialisation – realised through distinctive and adaptable pieces, recognisable for their light-heartedness and subtle cross-cultural references.